Well, plans change. Thats to be expected. I was hanging out in Talkeetna- contemplating heading up on the big mountain for some skiing- but heard rumors of blue ice- and then the weather turned. Pouring rain and sleet are not inspiring camping conditions. So, I hopped on the plane and made my way to Squamish- where the sun has not stopped shining. Only one little problem, my fingers have been in gloves for about 6 months, and rocks are hard!
Ross Berg- always psyched- if he’s around- happened to be around- and was psyched to get up on the rock. After much debate- we decided to head up Freeway Lite- a climb both of us had been up before. I must say, I was relieved when he asked to take the first pitch- it was muggy and sweaty- and AK had not prepared me for this. My pores were freaking out. The first pitch is always a crusher- cause it looks so benign and low angle- then requires some intense zen concentrating keeping your feet on the non-holds while working up and around the corner. Ross only said “watch me” twice- and sent. Following with the pack had me sketching slightly- until I took control of my wayward brain reminding myself to calm down because I can climb this. It worked. We made it up the first pitch- but not without some bitching.
I looked down at my hands after finishing the traverse- to note that all of my fingertips were peeling like bananas- every single one- it was scary looking. Ross arrived at the belay only to confirm that, yes, I probably have leprosy. Ross split the next pitch- something that I’m sure he regrets- cause I then proceeded to take hours leading the second 30 foot section- because more than my physical lack of fitness- my brain will not allow me to climb above any gear whatsoever in a crux. (This might be why I am still crushingly sore three days later). But again, we both sent. Then, being the chivalrous man that he is, Ross offered me the final pitch. Yikes! It didn’t look like it had been climbed yet this year- cobwebs filled the key holds and water seeped out of the cracks. I began grumbling about chivalry being a thing of the past- but for some reason, racked up anyway. Hours and hours later, I found myself nearing the big roof that marks the end of Freeway lite. Yes! Finally. By this time, poor Ross was getting bored and silently expressing this with a bigger than usual loop of slack. I too, was ready to be there, and so placed my last cam- in a crack- extended with a doubled up cordalette (about 7 feet long) and climbed about fifteen feet above it. On good holds, I began a traverse back to the right when my left foot covered in moss and seepage skated. Falling! I yelled- but Ross seems to remember me calmly flying through the air. I remember panic- as I watched all of the pieces go past.
Sadly, I ripped my new Mountain Hardwear pants- and lost my favorite Mountain Hardwear Hat- it was brown with pretty yellow flowers embroidered in the side- but, I did get some air time- and hopefully will loosen up a bit knowing that the system actually does work. Truly though, Squamish in the Springtime- when the sun shines bright- and the rock beckons- could not get any better.