Monthly Archive for September, 2009

HERA SLC 2009!

I need to put a huge heartfelt thanks out there to all of you who donated this year! I had a goal that was easily reached and far surpassed because of all of you! The event was a huge success. Raised over $100,000- and was just a little bit more than fun. The dance party was outrageous. We boogied until the lights came on and they kicked us out. The climbing was awesome- perfect weather- lots of psych. I got to work with two amazing school groups- kids who make me proud of our youth- and give me hope for the future. And they can climb too! Sean’s tribute was deeply moving and stole more than a couple tears.

There is something really special about participating in something that is bigger than ourselves- where most of the participants are not there to make money- but to contribute and make the world a better place. Sean’s vision was to empower women to do something about their health- to realize that they can make a difference. In this event, I saw how Sean, just one person, could create such a powerful foundation and inspire so many people. And now we all go into the world knowing that we can make a difference.

Mount Baker

Rick and I headed up for a late August ascent of Mt Baker. The North side was not an option this year as the road has been destroyed by flood so we went South. I heard all sorts of rumors that the mountain was in unusually late season conditions due to the warm and dry conditions this summer. I was excited to see this part of the mountain that I hadn’t seen since my days of slogging for AAI in 2002. I could not believe how far we could ascend on rock. We did not touch snow until 6700′. And then there were not too many ways around the crevasses. The upper mountain was particularly broken up. For a couple crossings- I placed ice screws for a belay- and the upper headwall consisted of water pouring over ice.
It was incredible. But alas, the basic shape of the mountain remained familiar- and the long walk to the actual summit made me smile with memories.
Rick put up a good fight and thoroughly deserved the elation that came with standing on top.
He worked very hard to get there not just physically but by making time in his demanding schedule.
We topped off the trip with a lovely lunch in Bellingham before “real life” had to take over again . . .

Jackson Hole Mountain Guides

The guides are an incredible company- of quirky souls and real people just doing their best to make a living in the mountains. It is what a business should be- a place where you want to be- where you find yourself wanting to stick around at the end of the day- where you are inspired to do the best work you can- because you honestly want to make sure that the client has a good time. Its so easy to take places like this for granted in life- its just work- and every now and again Patrick or Paul might snap at you for not doing your paperwork- but its also a place where people hand you a beer at the end of the day, where you would be missed if you forgot to return.


This is why their trips turn out so special- because we want to be there. Jorge and I climbed the Grand Teton amidst a discussion about why we climb: is it for the summit, the exercise, or the journey? After mulling over previous ascents and our personality types we let the trip speak for itself. So clearly- it is about the journey- about overcoming doubt, and bravely going into the unknown- its about accepting your weaknesses and injuries- without letting them overcome your goals- its about enjoying every moment- or at least being present- because without that- you do not even allow the opportunity for happiness. We so easily get lost in the anxiety of “how much further?” or “will I be able to make it?” And in the end, Jorge became a mountaineer- addicted to the journey.

And then Elizabeth showed up. The discussion was about fear. About knowing the difference between real fear and fear reactions- how to remain calm when you know the fear will not help- and how to move beyond it by accepting it. And in the end- we climbed four big routes in four days. I have never had such a prolific trip. We arrived at high camp, climbed the Corkscrew (III 5.8+), then climbed Irene’s Arete (IV 5.9), then the Petzoldt Ridge (IV 5.7) on the Grand Teton (13,770′), then finished on the fourth day on the Red Sentinel (II 5.8), an incredibly exposed climb with a two hundred foot overhanging rappel. Somehow fear remained only a philosophical discussion and it did not come close to conquering our joy of the moment.

And maybe this is why I love Jackson Hole Mountain Guides- because they allow a forum for such grand adventures. Or maybe I just love returning back at the end of the day to so many familiar faces. It must have something to do with the mountains- with the shared passions- and the undeniable way climbing forces us all to know the moment.

I just joined this great campaign, Young Invincibles, that is all about mobilizing young Americans between the ages of 18 and 34 to stand up for health care reform.

I think you should join, too. http://www.younginvincibles.org/takeaction.html

The health care crisis in America is our crisis. We represent the largest group of uninsured in the country. And we are the ones most at risk of losing our coverage on account of layoffs, moving across state lines or just deciding to do that thing we always wanted to do.

I believe that mountain guides and outdoor workers in our society are some of those who most easily fall through the cracks. When I was first getting sick with a lung tumor- I knew that I needed a CAT scan- and did not go because I could not afford it without better insurance. I have also had Blue Shield of Idaho do everything in their power to drop me from their plan. We can stand up and make a difference in our country.

The debate in Washington is happening without us. It’s time we make ourselves heard.

Join me.

A Grand Experience

Shelli Johnson and her family came to join us on the Grand Teton this summer. Really, her blog does way more justice to the trip than mine could ever do. But let me just say this- its trips like these that make me realize that I really love my job. They were an awesome group of wonderful people.
Check it out at http://havemediawilltravel.com/day-2-of-grand-teton-expedition/

Cheers!